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Available nut widths....1 11/16", 1 3/4", 1 13/16".... No charge
I would say that 97% of the guitars that I have built have 1 3/4″ width nuts. This is the sweet spot for most fingerstyle guitar players and a great many players that are accustomed to prewar guitars. Some flat pickers and rock players will pick the narrower 1 11/16″ nut and some fingerstylists will go to the wider 1 13/16″.
Sunburst Top "Loar Style"….$950
The Loar Style sunburst is an old-style dye in the wood sunburst, reminiscent of those on early Gibson mandolins and guitars up until about the mid-1920s. At that time most guitar manufacturers changed over to spraying sunbursts with pigmented lacquer, a far easier and more consistent way to do it. Where the sunburst done with a dye stain brings out every flaw in the wood, the sprayed sunburst masks all the defects. However, when done correctly, on a nice piece of wood, it is in my view the most beautiful sunburst finish. It is particularly beautiful when used on maple for the back and sides.
Alternatives or exotic woods….please inquire
The standard wood that I use for back and sides is AAA Brazilian rosewood. This I consider to be the king of tonewoods. I do have an inventory of some fancier mahogany and some beautiful curly maple & koa, which also makes wonderful guitars. I don’t often venture outside of these classic tone woods, though if you would like something other than these choices I’m open for discussion. I do have some “Master” & “Master Reserve” Brazilian rosewood which would be at an additional cost.
The top wood that is standard is Sitka spruce. This is a fine tone wood that makes excellent sounding guitars. I have a stock aged Adirondack red spruce and aged European spruce as an upgrade to the standard spruce.
This embellishment harkens back to a building technique used before 1900. A common practice was to join the headstock to the shank of the neck with a V-joint. When the Martin guitar company switched to South American mahogany from Spanish Cedar in the early part of the century the V joint faded away, as the large mahogany boards made it easy to make one piece necks. However, the embellishment remained on their more expensive models.